How to Tie the Fat Albert Fly: Step-by-Step Guide
With : Fly Fish Food
A high-floating, foam-bodied attractor dry fly, the Fat Albert is perfect for big terrestrial hatches and works great as a top fly in dry-dropper rigs.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Step 1: Hook Prep
Secure a TMC 2302 or similar 2X-long dry fly hook in your vise.
Start your thread (use 140 denier thread for strength) about a third of the way back from the eye, and lay a thread base down the shank.
Step 2: Tie in Foam for the Body
Cut two pieces of closed-cell foam:
Top piece: about 1.5× the hook gap in width.
Bottom piece: about 1× the hook gap in width.
Lay the top foam strip over the hook shank and tie it in at the rear of your thread base. Pinch the foam around the shank as you tie back to the bend.
Repeat with the bottom piece, tying it in the same way.
Unwind your thread slightly so it lays flat, then begin wrapping it smoothly from back to front, covering the exposed portion of foam. Flip the hook to check the underside and make sure the wraps are even.
Step 3: Segment the Body
Divide the body into four equal parts.
Fold the bottom foam forward at each quarter-point and secure with two thread wraps:
First segment: ¼ from the rear.
Second: at the halfway point.
Third: ¾ of the way up.
Final tie-off at the front.
Smooth any loose areas with additional thread wraps.
Step 4: Fold and Tie Down Top Foam
Fold the top piece of foam over the segmented body and tie it down at the front to form the classic Fat Albert body shape.
Step 5: Add Rear Legs
Take Life Flex or similar rubber leg material and tie a simple overhand knot in the middle of each strand.
Trim off one end to leave a single knotted leg per side.
Position the knotted legs at a downward angle on each rear side and tie them in securely.
Step 6: Add Wing and Indicator
Tie in a small clump of white EP Trigger Point Fibers as the underwing, just behind the foam tie-off.
Trim excess foam from the bottom strip if needed.
Fold the top foam piece backward slightly and tie it again to lock in the wing angle.
Add a fluorescent green EP yarn post (or similar hi-vis material) in front of the wing. Tie it in with a backward pull and secure using a thread “bulb” to keep it upright. Trim to your desired length.
Step 7: Add Front Legs
Tie in a single strand of leg material on the far side, then loop it around the front of the fly to the near side.
Adjust the angle so they kick out and back naturally.
Step 8: Whip Finish and Trim
Whip finish just behind the hook eye.
Trim the foam strips:
Bottom foam: leave a bit extended past the hook eye to aid floatation.
Top foam: trim slightly shorter than the bottom.
Trim legs to desired length—generally short front legs and longer rear legs.
Step 9: Cement and Seal
Apply head cement to the thread wraps along the belly and around the legs for durability.
Let the glue soak into the thread and foam segments.
Optional: color the legs with marker for added realism.
Materials List:
Hook: TMC 2302 (or any 2X long dry fly hook), Size 6–12
Thread: 140 Denier in color of choice
Body Foam: 2mm closed-cell foam in tan and brown (or color combo of your choice)
Legs: Life Flex or silicone rubber legs (tan)
Underwing: EP Trigger Point Fibers (white)
Hi-Vis Indicator: EP Fibers or Hi-Vis Yarn (fluorescent green)
Cement: Head cement or Zap-A-Gap
