How to Tie the Green Drake Half Hog — Step-by-Step Fly Tying Tutorial

With: Scott Jackson

Today we’re tying up a real looker — the Green Drake Half Hog. This pattern is one of those flies that turns heads both in the vise and on the water. It’s got that big-bug attitude of a Drake but tied with a subtle, natural profile that makes trout lose their composure during a hatch.

Think of it as the perfect cross between finesse and confidence — a sturdy, buoyant emerger that sits just right in the film. Whether you’re chasing late-spring hatches on a limestone stream or swinging through a Scottish loch, this one’s going to earn a spot in your fly box in sizes 10 and 12.

✂️ Step-by-Step Fly Tying Guide

1. Hook & Thread Setup

  • Secure a Kamasan B100 or B110 curved grub hook, size 10 or 12, in your vise.

  • Start your Uni Thread (Yellow Olive Dun) slightly above the hook point and wrap back to the bend.

  • Trim the tag end and keep thread tension steady.

2. Build the Body

  • Take a bleached and olive-dyed peacock eye quill.

  • Tie it in at the rear of the hook and wrap forward in touching turns to form a smooth, segmented body.

  • Secure with tight thread wraps and add a half hitch for security.

3. Apply UV Protection

  • Coat the body lightly with Bug Bond Light UV resin — just enough to add durability.

  • Cure with a UV torch until set, revealing that bright, clean olive sheen.

4. Add the First Wing

  • Stack and measure a small bunch of olive-dyed deer hair, tips extending slightly past the hook bend.

  • Tie in with a firm pinch wrap and trim the butts.

  • Secure with several tight thread wraps.

5. Add the Legs

  • Tie in two pre-knotted pheasant tail fibers dyed golden olive on each side.

  • Legs should extend just beyond the wing tips. Trim excess.

6. Create the Thorax

  • Dub a thin noodle of SLF Light Olive dubbing mixed with a touch of red and orange highlights.

  • Wrap forward to form a slightly tapered thorax.

  • Stroke fibers back as you go to create natural movement.

7. Add the Second Wing

  • Stack another bunch of olive deer hair, same length as the first wing.

  • Tie in with tight pinch wraps — keeping thread tension firm to prevent spinning.

8. Front Wing and Head

  • Use a final bunch of natural deer hair for the front wing.

  • Align tips with previous bunches and secure with pinch wraps.

  • Trim butts and tidy the head area.

9. Finish the Fly

  • Add a small pinch of dubbing in front of the wings for a neat head.

  • Whip finish, apply a small drop of varnish, and brush out the dubbing with Velcro for a buggy, lifelike look.

🧵 Green Drake Half Hog – Fly Recipe

  • Hook: Kamasan B100 or B110 curved grub hook, size 10–12

  • Thread: Uni Thread 8/0, Yellow Olive Dun

  • Body: Bleached and olive-dyed peacock eye quill

  • Coating: Bug Bond Light UV resin (cured with UV torch)

  • First Wing: Olive-dyed deer hair

  • Legs: Pre-knotted pheasant tail fibers dyed golden olive

  • Thorax Dubbing: SLF Light Olive dubbing blended with a small amount of red and orange

  • Second Wing: Olive-dyed deer hair (same length as first wing)

  • Front Wing: Natural deer hair

  • Head Finish: Small amount of dubbing at the head; whip finish and varnish

  • Optional Tools: Wax for thread grip, Velcro brush for teasing dubbing

Would you like me to add a materials shopping list version too (with suggested brands or substitutes)? That’s handy for website readers or shop links.

Next
Next

How to Tie the CDC Bubble Caddis – Realistic & Hackle-Free Dry Fly