How to Tie the Prospector Stone – Step-by-Step Guide

With: The Northern Angler Fly Shop

The Prospector Stone, created by Arlo Townsend and popularized through Landon Mayer’s Guide Flies, is a weighty, impressionistic stonefly nymph that gets down quickly and performs exceptionally well across a variety of water types.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Hook & Bead

  • Secure a Firehole 523 size 8 hook in your vise.

  • Slide on a 3/16” (4.5mm) faceted slotted tungsten bead in gold.

  • Wrap 10 turns of .030 lead wire behind the bead and push it forward to help seat the bead and bulk up the thorax.

Step 2: Thread Base

  • Start your light Cahill Uni 6/0 thread behind the lead wire.

  • Build a small thread bump at the back of the shank to help splay the tails.

Step 3: Tails

  • Select two rusty brown goose biots.

  • Measure to about the length of the hook shank.

  • Tie them in so they splay outward, using the thread bump as a base.

  • Secure them forward to the lead wire.

Step 4: Ribbing

  • Tie in a piece of brassy gold ultra wire on the near side of the hook, wrapping it back to the tail.

Step 5: Body

  • Tie in natural color nymph skin.

  • Stretch slightly and wrap it forward, overlapping slightly to form a tapered body up to the middle of the lead wraps.

  • Tie off and trim.

Step 6: Ribbing Wrap

  • Counter-wrap the ultra wire forward over the nymph skin to create segmentation.

  • Tie off and helicopter the wire to break it cleanly.

Step 7: Thread Switch

  • Switch to black 12/0 or thinner thread (like GSP 30) for the thorax area.

  • Start just behind the bead and wrap back toward the body.

Step 8: Flashback Layer

  • Fold 7–8 strands of black holographic flash around your thread and tie it in on top of the shank, extending backward toward the rear of the thorax.

  • Secure with a few wraps and clip into a material holder.

Step 9: Wing Case Base

  • Cut and tie in a thin strip of black Thin Skin, shiny side down, directly on top of the shank, just behind the bead.

Step 10: Antennae

  • Tie in two additional goose biots (same color as tails) on either side of the hook just behind the bead.

  • Trim to the desired length (about the same as the bead’s diameter).

Step 11: Legs

  • Use MFC Barred Sexy Floss (brown/copper) to create rear and front legs.

  • Fold the floss over your thread and tie in a set of legs on each side of the body.

  • Walk the rear legs toward the back of the thorax and front legs toward the bead, maintaining spacing for the thorax.

Step 12: Thorax

  • Tie in three strands of tan ostrich herl.

  • Wrap the herl forward in touching turns to fill the thorax space.

  • Tie off behind the bead.

Step 13: Wing Case

  • Fold the Thin Skin strip forward and secure it behind the bead with a few tight wraps.

  • Repeat with the flashback strands on top of the Thin Skin.

  • Tie off and trim excess.

Step 14: Whip Finish & Epoxy

  • Whip finish or secure with adhesive like Zap-A-Gap if thread breaks.

  • Apply a thin coat of UV resin (e.g., Solarez Bone Dry) over the wing case to create a domed bubble.

  • Cure with a UV torch.

Step 15: Trim Legs

  • Trim rear legs to halfway into the biots.

  • Trim front legs slightly shorter than the rear.

Prospector Stone Materials List

  • Hook: Firehole 523 Size 8

  • Bead: 3/16” (4.5mm) Slotted Tungsten Faceted Gold Bead

  • Lead Wire: .030

  • Thread (Body): Uni 6/0 Light Cahill

  • Thread (Thorax): GSP 30 or black 12/0

  • Tail & Antennae: Rusty Brown Goose Biots

  • Ribbing: Ultra Wire – Brassy Gold

  • Body: Natural Color Nymph Skin

  • Wing Case Base: Black Thin Skin

  • Flashback: Black Holographic Flash or Tinsel

  • Legs: MFC Barred Sexy Floss (Brown/Copper)

  • Thorax: Tan Ostrich Herl

  • UV Resin: Solarez Bone Dry or similar

  • Super Glue (Optional): Zap-A-Gap

Previous
Previous

Fly Fishing New Zealand: A Young Guide’s Epic Backcountry Adventure

Next
Next

Chasing Giants: Gear, Stories, and the Quest for Monster Dollies